Pastrami on Rye at the Last Jewish Deli in the Bronx | Sandwich City | NYT Cooking
Step inside Liebman's Deli, the last Jewish delicatessen in the Bronx, where a secret spice rub, seven days of brining, and decades of family tradition make the perfect pastrami sandwich.
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Show notes
This episode of Sandwich City visits Liebman's Deli in Riverdale, the last remaining Jewish delicatessen in the Bronx. Owner Yuval Dekel walks through the deli's history since 1953, the neighborhood's once-large Jewish community, and what makes the shop's pastrami sandwich so legendary.
We go behind the counter to see how the pastrami is made, from seven days of brining to a closely guarded spice rub and hours of slow roasting with wood chips for smoke flavor. Customers and staff share why the sandwich, and the deli itself, feels like a true New York institution.
The episode also traces Liebman's family legacy, as Yuval took over from his father in 2002 after balancing life as a metal band drummer with running the family business. Longtime regulars and staff reflect on how the deli has survived while so many others have closed, and why preserving tradition matters more than chasing trends.
Key takeaways
- Liebman's Deli in Riverdale, Bronx, has operated since 1953 and is now the last Jewish deli left in the borough.
- The pastrami sandwich is the deli's signature item, made with just rye bread and freshly sliced pastrami.
- The pastrami is brined for seven days, coated in a secret house-made rub, and slow-roasted with wood chips for smoke flavor.
- Owner Yuval Dekel took over the business in 2002 after his father passed away, balancing it with his life as a metal band drummer.
- The deli's old-school, 'less is more' approach has helped it endure even as the Jewish deli business across New York has declined.
- Longtime customers and staff describe Liebman's as a 'time capsule' preserving classic Jewish deli tradition.
Highlights
- 0:12 — "There are many Jewish delicatessens, but this is by far the best."
- 1:57 — Why the pastrami sandwich is kept simple: just rye bread and pastrami
- 2:42 — The secretly guarded pastrami spice rub
- 3:41 — Customers describe the richness and tenderness of the pastrami
- 7:00 — Yuval Dekel on going from metal band drummer to deli owner
- 8:12 — Continuing the legacy of the New York Jewish deli
00:00:00 Meet Liebman's, the Last Bronx Deli
00:00:57 Yuval Dekel Introduces the Deli's History
00:01:33 Classic Jewish Deli Menu and Steam Table
00:02:03 Anatomy of the Pastrami Sandwich
00:02:22 Brining and Seasoning the Pastrami
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00:05:01 Press Clippings and Deli Decline
00:05:38 The Bronx's Jewish Deli History
00:06:16 Longtime Regulars Share Memories
00:06:33 Taking Over From His Father
00:07:04 From Metal Drummer to Deli Owner
00:08:12 Continuing the Deli's LegacyWEBVTT
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The<00:03:57.986> pastrami<00:03:58.171> here<00:03:58.357> is<00:03:58.543> superb.”<00:03:58.729> “When<00:03:58.914> I<00:03:59.100> order<00:03:59.286> out<00:03:59.471> for<00:03:59.657> people,<00:03:59.843> I<00:04:00.029> always<00:04:00.214> --<00:04:00.400> they<00:04:00.586> always<00:04:00.771> ask<00:04:00.957> me<00:04:01.143> to<00:04:01.329> bring<00:04:01.514> brisket<00:04:01.700> sandwiches
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and<00:04:05.555> pastrami.”<00:04:05.820> “If<00:04:06.086> you<00:04:06.351> love<00:04:06.616> pastrami<00:04:06.881> sandwich,<00:04:07.146> this<00:04:07.412> is<00:04:07.677> the<00:04:07.942> place<00:04:08.207> to<00:04:08.472> come.”<00:04:08.738> “Is<00:04:09.003> your<00:04:09.268> first<00:04:09.533> time<00:04:09.798> coming<00:04:10.064> here?”<00:04:10.329> “Yeah.”<00:04:10.594> “He<00:04:10.859> loves<00:04:11.124> a<00:04:11.390> good<00:04:11.655> Jewish<00:04:11.920> deli.
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sandwich.<00:04:19.642> It’s<00:04:19.874> the<00:04:20.107> best<00:04:20.339> pastrami<00:04:20.571> sandwich.<00:04:20.803> It’s<00:04:21.036> the<00:04:21.268> real<00:04:21.500> deal.
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we’re<00:04:25.391> still<00:04:25.392> here,<00:04:25.393> and<00:04:25.394> that<00:04:25.395> you<00:04:25.396> can<00:04:25.397> actually<00:04:25.398> still<00:04:25.399> get
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something<00:04:29.201> that<00:04:29.202> is<00:04:29.203> exactly<00:04:29.204> the<00:04:29.205> same<00:04:29.206> way<00:04:29.207> we’ve<00:04:29.208> been<00:04:29.209> serving<00:04:29.210> it
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for<00:04:32.738> 70<00:04:32.886> years.<00:04:33.033> We<00:04:33.181> maintain<00:04:33.329> this<00:04:33.477> less<00:04:33.624> is<00:04:33.772> more<00:04:33.920> mentality,
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on<00:04:41.141> social<00:04:41.142> media,<00:04:41.143> but<00:04:41.144> deep<00:04:41.145> down<00:04:41.146> inside,
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we’re<00:04:44.401> proud<00:04:44.532> of<00:04:44.664> what<00:04:44.795> we<00:04:44.926> do.<00:04:45.058> We’re<00:04:45.189> kind<00:04:45.320> of<00:04:45.451> stubborn<00:04:45.583> in<00:04:45.714> that<00:04:45.845> way,<00:04:45.976> and<00:04:46.108> it<00:04:46.239> really<00:04:46.370> wouldn’t<00:04:46.501> be<00:04:46.633> a<00:04:46.764> proper<00:04:46.895> New<00:04:47.026> York<00:04:47.158> deli<00:04:47.289> if<00:04:47.420> we
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didn’t<00:04:51.671> do<00:04:51.672> that.”
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“These<00:05:01.538> articles<00:05:01.651> right<00:05:01.764> here,<00:05:01.877> what’s<00:05:01.990> this<00:05:02.104> one<00:05:02.217> on<00:05:02.330> the<00:05:02.443> left?”<00:05:02.556> “So<00:05:02.669> this<00:05:02.782> guy<00:05:02.895> right<00:05:03.008> here<00:05:03.121> is<00:05:03.235> our<00:05:03.348> very<00:05:03.461> first<00:05:03.574> ‘New<00:05:03.687> York<00:05:03.800> Times’
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appearance.<00:05:08.941> And,<00:05:09.133> I<00:05:09.324> mean,<00:05:09.516> it<00:05:09.707> happened<00:05:09.899> quite<00:05:10.090> some<00:05:10.281> time<00:05:10.473> ago.<00:05:10.664> I<00:05:10.856> believe<00:05:11.047> this<00:05:11.239> is<00:05:11.430> 2005.
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There<00:05:13.491> were<00:05:13.492> a<00:05:13.493> lot<00:05:13.494> of<00:05:13.495> delis<00:05:13.496> throughout<00:05:13.497> the<00:05:13.498> decades.
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And<00:05:16.531> as<00:05:16.532> the<00:05:16.533> deli<00:05:16.534> business<00:05:16.535> went<00:05:16.536> through<00:05:16.537> a<00:05:16.538> bit<00:05:16.539> of<00:05:16.540> a<00:05:16.541> demise,
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people<00:05:20.101> started<00:05:20.102> appreciating<00:05:20.103> the<00:05:20.104> fact<00:05:20.105> that<00:05:20.106> we<00:05:20.107> are<00:05:20.108> still
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here.”<00:05:23.198> “My<00:05:23.396> name<00:05:23.594> is<00:05:23.791> Hakan<00:05:23.989> Baracu.<00:05:24.187> I’m<00:05:24.385> a<00:05:24.583> waiter<00:05:24.781> over<00:05:24.979> here<00:05:25.176> in<00:05:25.374> a<00:05:25.572> little<00:05:25.770> while.
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First<00:05:29.099> time<00:05:29.278> I<00:05:29.456> came<00:05:29.635> in<00:05:29.814> here,<00:05:29.993> we<00:05:30.171> used<00:05:30.350> to<00:05:30.529> have<00:05:30.708> a<00:05:30.886> lot<00:05:31.065> of<00:05:31.244> old<00:05:31.423> people<00:05:31.601> here<00:05:31.780> coming<00:05:31.959> in,<00:05:32.138> and<00:05:32.316> all<00:05:32.495> those<00:05:32.674> people<00:05:32.852> are<00:05:33.031> gone<00:05:33.210> already.
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It<00:05:35.671> was<00:05:35.672> a<00:05:35.673> packed<00:05:35.674> full,<00:05:35.675> lined<00:05:35.676> up<00:05:35.677> here.”
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“O.K.<00:05:38.916> My<00:05:39.097> name<00:05:39.277> is<00:05:39.458> Hakan.”<00:05:39.639> “Nice<00:05:39.820> to<00:05:40.001> meet<00:05:40.181> you.”<00:05:40.362> “Nice<00:05:40.543> to<00:05:40.724> meet<00:05:40.904> you.”<00:05:41.085> “In<00:05:41.266> the<00:05:41.447> Bronx,<00:05:41.628> in<00:05:41.808> the<00:05:41.989> early<00:05:42.170> 1900s,
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there<00:05:45.661> were<00:05:45.662> a<00:05:45.663> lot<00:05:45.664> of<00:05:45.665> Jewish<00:05:45.666> people<00:05:45.667> living<00:05:45.668> here.
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And<00:05:49.471> there<00:05:49.472> were<00:05:49.473> delis<00:05:49.474> almost<00:05:49.475> on<00:05:49.476> every<00:05:49.477> other<00:05:49.478> corner.
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Liebman’s<00:05:58.702> is<00:05:58.884> like<00:05:59.066> a<00:05:59.248> time<00:05:59.430> capsule.<00:05:59.611> I<00:05:59.793> know<00:05:59.975> that<00:06:00.157> term<00:06:00.339> is<00:06:00.521> used<00:06:00.703> a<00:06:00.885> lot,<00:06:01.067> but<00:06:01.249> Jewish<00:06:01.430> deli<00:06:01.612> as<00:06:01.794> a<00:06:01.976> whole<00:06:02.158> is<00:06:02.340> based
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on<00:06:05.661> old<00:06:05.662> school<00:06:05.663> style<00:06:05.664> of<00:06:05.665> food.
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And<00:06:08.851> so,<00:06:08.852> I<00:06:08.853> think<00:06:08.854> the<00:06:08.855> best<00:06:08.856> delis<00:06:08.857> are<00:06:08.858> known<00:06:08.859> for<00:06:08.860> how<00:06:08.861> they
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preserve<00:06:13.431> that.”
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“I’ve<00:06:16.476> been<00:06:16.477> coming<00:06:16.478> to<00:06:16.479> Liebman’s<00:06:16.480> Deli<00:06:16.481> forever.”
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“I’ve<00:06:19.886> been<00:06:19.887> coming<00:06:19.888> to<00:06:19.889> Liebman’s<00:06:19.890> since<00:06:19.891> the<00:06:19.892> day<00:06:19.893> it<00:06:19.894> opened.
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I<00:06:23.826> remember<00:06:23.951> the<00:06:24.077> original<00:06:24.203> owners.<00:06:24.328> Now,<00:06:24.454> I<00:06:24.579> believe,<00:06:24.705> it’s<00:06:24.831> his<00:06:24.956> son<00:06:25.082> or<00:06:25.208> daughter<00:06:25.333> that<00:06:25.459> is<00:06:25.584> the<00:06:25.710> owners
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of<00:06:29.241> the<00:06:29.242> place<00:06:29.243> now.”
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“I’ve<00:06:33.351> been<00:06:33.352> running<00:06:33.353> Liebman<00:06:33.354> since<00:06:33.355> 2002.
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My<00:06:36.481> dad<00:06:36.482> owned<00:06:36.483> it<00:06:36.484> for<00:06:36.485> 20<00:06:36.486> years<00:06:36.487> about,<00:06:36.488> prior<00:06:36.489> to<00:06:36.490> me<00:06:36.491> owning<00:06:36.492> it.
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In<00:06:41.451> 2002,<00:06:41.452> he<00:06:41.453> passed<00:06:41.454> away.
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It<00:06:47.121> was<00:06:47.122> always<00:06:47.123> part<00:06:47.124> of<00:06:47.125> our<00:06:47.126> lives.
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We’d<00:06:51.321> run<00:06:51.322> around<00:06:51.323> here<00:06:51.324> as<00:06:51.325> kids,<00:06:51.326> my<00:06:51.327> brother<00:06:51.328> and<00:06:51.329> I.<00:06:51.330> Yeah,
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this<00:06:54.591> was<00:06:54.592> like<00:06:54.593> second<00:06:54.594> home,<00:06:54.595> even<00:06:54.596> my<00:06:54.597> first<00:06:54.598> home,<00:06:54.599> right?
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Because<00:06:57.491> we’d<00:06:57.492> spend<00:06:57.493> more<00:06:57.494> time<00:06:57.495> here<00:06:57.496> than<00:06:57.497> at<00:06:57.498> home.
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So<00:07:00.421> when<00:07:00.422> I<00:07:00.423> started<00:07:00.424> running<00:07:00.425> Liebman’s,<00:07:00.426> I<00:07:00.427> was<00:07:00.428> 24<00:07:00.429> years<00:07:00.430> old.
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Before,<00:07:04.368> I<00:07:04.507> was<00:07:04.645> in<00:07:04.783> a<00:07:04.922> band.<00:07:05.060> I’m<00:07:05.198> a<00:07:05.337> drummer<00:07:05.475> in<00:07:05.613> a<00:07:05.752> metal<00:07:05.890> band.
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We’ve<00:07:09.721> accumulated<00:07:09.722> a<00:07:09.723> bit<00:07:09.724> of<00:07:09.725> merch<00:07:09.726> over<00:07:09.727> the<00:07:09.728> years.
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So<00:07:13.021> I’m<00:07:13.022> a<00:07:13.023> big<00:07:13.024> metal<00:07:13.025> head,<00:07:13.026> love<00:07:13.027> of<00:07:13.028> heavy<00:07:13.029> music,
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love<00:07:16.534> all<00:07:16.718> kinds<00:07:16.902> of<00:07:17.086> music.<00:07:17.269> But<00:07:17.453> metal<00:07:17.637> was<00:07:17.821> my<00:07:18.005> first<00:07:18.189> love.<00:07:18.373> Those<00:07:18.557> worlds<00:07:18.741> were<00:07:18.924> separate<00:07:19.108> for<00:07:19.292> a<00:07:19.476> long<00:07:19.660> time.
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So<00:07:21.739> I<00:07:21.889> said,<00:07:22.038> hey,<00:07:22.188> you<00:07:22.337> know<00:07:22.487> what?<00:07:22.636> I’m<00:07:22.786> putting<00:07:22.935> them<00:07:23.084> together.<00:07:23.234> It<00:07:23.383> wasn’t<00:07:23.533> something<00:07:23.682> I<00:07:23.832> was<00:07:23.981> planning<00:07:24.131> on<00:07:24.280> doing,
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but<00:07:27.161> we<00:07:27.162> wanted<00:07:27.163> to<00:07:27.164> run<00:07:27.165> the<00:07:27.166> deli<00:07:27.167> simply<00:07:27.168> because<00:07:27.169> we<00:07:27.170> were
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so<00:07:30.841> motivated<00:07:30.842> by<00:07:30.843> continuing<00:07:30.844> what<00:07:30.845> he<00:07:30.846> had<00:07:30.847> been<00:07:30.848> doing<00:07:30.849> for<00:07:30.850> all
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these<00:07:36.963> years.<00:07:37.147> I<00:07:37.330> thought<00:07:37.513> about<00:07:37.697> this<00:07:37.880> a<00:07:38.063> lot.<00:07:38.247> Dad<00:07:38.430> would<00:07:38.613> be<00:07:38.797> really<00:07:38.980> proud.
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I<00:07:41.524> think<00:07:41.647> he’d<00:07:41.771> be<00:07:41.895> blown<00:07:42.018> away<00:07:42.142> just<00:07:42.266> because,<00:07:42.389> well,<00:07:42.513> first<00:07:42.637> of<00:07:42.761> all,<00:07:42.884> I’ve<00:07:43.008> been<00:07:43.132> doing<00:07:43.255> it<00:07:43.379> for<00:07:43.503> about<00:07:43.626> 22<00:07:43.750> years,
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surviving<00:07:46.981> a<00:07:46.982> pandemic,<00:07:46.983> getting<00:07:46.984> all<00:07:46.985> this<00:07:46.986> notoriety.
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But<00:07:50.691> yeah,<00:07:50.882> he’s<00:07:51.073> always<00:07:51.264> going<00:07:51.455> to<00:07:51.645> be<00:07:51.836> remembered.<00:07:52.027> His<00:07:52.218> picture<00:07:52.409> is<00:07:52.600> upstairs.
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And<00:07:53.861> so,<00:07:53.862> we’ll<00:07:53.863> always<00:07:53.864> remember<00:07:53.865> Dad<00:07:53.866> here.”
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[CONVERSING]<00:07:57.366> “I<00:07:57.852> can<00:07:58.338> clean<00:07:58.824> the<00:07:59.310> table,<00:07:59.797> yes?”<00:08:00.283> “Yeah.”<00:08:00.769> “Liebman’s<00:08:01.255> is<00:08:01.741> a<00:08:02.227> gem.
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I’d<00:08:06.751> hate<00:08:06.752> to<00:08:06.753> see<00:08:06.754> it<00:08:06.755> ever<00:08:06.756> leave<00:08:06.757> Riverdale<00:08:06.758> because<00:08:06.759> you<00:08:06.760> can
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never<00:08:09.421> find<00:08:09.422> a<00:08:09.423> delicatessen<00:08:09.424> as<00:08:09.425> good<00:08:09.426> as<00:08:09.427> this<00:08:09.428> one.”
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“For<00:08:12.367> us<00:08:12.368> to<00:08:12.369> succeed<00:08:12.370> is<00:08:12.371> to<00:08:12.372> continue<00:08:12.373> what<00:08:12.374> we’re<00:08:12.375> already
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doing,<00:08:18.031> continue<00:08:18.032> the<00:08:18.033> legacy<00:08:18.034> of<00:08:18.035> the<00:08:18.036> New<00:08:18.037> York<00:08:18.038> Jewish<00:08:18.039> deli.
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I<00:08:22.871> mean,<00:08:22.872> it’s<00:08:22.873> something<00:08:22.874> that<00:08:22.875> we’re<00:08:22.876> really<00:08:22.877> proud<00:08:22.878> of<00:08:22.879> and<00:08:22.880> we
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feel<00:08:26.521> is<00:08:26.522> a<00:08:26.523> great<00:08:26.524> experience<00:08:26.525> for<00:08:26.526> people<00:08:26.527> to<00:08:26.528> enjoy.
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So<00:08:30.791> we’ve<00:08:30.792> quietly<00:08:30.793> been<00:08:30.794> doing<00:08:30.795> our<00:08:30.796> thing,
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and<00:08:34.180> we’ve<00:08:34.181> managed<00:08:34.182> to<00:08:34.183> maintain<00:08:34.184> something<00:08:34.185> that<00:08:34.186> is<00:08:34.187> very<00:08:34.188> unique
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to<00:08:39.481> us<00:08:39.482> because<00:08:39.483> we<00:08:39.484> just<00:08:39.485> love<00:08:39.486> what<00:08:39.487> we<00:08:39.488> do.”
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